Monday, 13 May 2013

prawn fest or bust

A couple of months ago I get a excited phone call from my best friend, Jamyra, telling me of Dublin's annual Prawn Festival and that I have to go.  Keep in mind that this friend currently lives in Iowa (landlocked) and has never been to Ireland.  She called while I was out having drinks with some friends (Maria and Dave) to which they respond:

"I have never been to the Prawn Festival and I have lived here for eight years!"

Despite, what we consider, being right on the sea Dublin is surprisingly lacking in seafood culture.  You can get smoked salmon and of course battered fried fish everywhere and anywhere, but steaming bowls of mussels, raw oysters and fresh prawns are few and far in between.  Don't get me wrong, you can buy plenty of super fresh fish and cockles from the local fish monger, but restaurant menus in Dublin can make you feel hundreds of miles from the sea.  The Irish do love their meat.

So leave it to American landlocked chef to discover a local seafood epicentre happening within a couple months of our arrival to Dublin.

It turns out that Dublin is just far enough from the coast to not have a heritage of fishing and seafood.  Go out west though, to Galway and you'll find little else.  After living in Wyoming and Colorado for the past six years we are closer to the ocean than ever.  Why isn't there more seafood?

Flash forward to one sunny Sunday afternoon in April when Niall and I decide to take the train out to Howth for a hike on the coast.  We packed sandwiches and rain jackets and dressed for an adventure.  The train was packed with people and with no place to sit I stood by the window thinking, when is that prawn festival happening that Jam was telling us about?  Instead of asking the outward bound passengers I consulted google and discovered what I am sure they would have told me - the Prawn Fest was that very day in Howth!

Goodbye ham sandwiches and water.  Hello raw oysters and white wine.

There is very little else I love more in this world than fresh seafood.  And oh how I love the little seaside towns that honor it.

This was our first time out to Howth and we were welcomed with floods of people outside enjoying the sunshine among a windy harbour filled with sailboats and kite surfers.  Immediately we "stumbled" upon Beshoff's Market and fall in love.  Here is the fish market I have been looking for since we moved to an island.  Loads of fresh fish with their heads still on.  Bags of cockles resting in ice.  And a white marble bar lined with people enjoying raw oysters and glasses of Guinness.  It was tough not to just call it there but we determined that Beshoff's will always be there, the Prawn Fest wont.  And so we treck on.

Under a big white tent we enjoyed a steaming "bowl" of mussels, fresh oysters and baked seafood pasta.  Then we got to the real fun pealing plates of prawns in a chili lime sauce and others with garlic oil.  Finger lickin'...

It was hard to get a straight answer about what exactly the difference is between a prawn and a shrimp.  Alton Brown says prawns are just really big shrimp.  Of course biologically they are different animals, but where cooking is concerned it might not be that big of a deal:

While different varieties of shrimp and prawns vary in taste and texture, those differences do not divide along "shrimp" and "prawn" lines. In short, while shrimp and prawns are not the same, they are interchangeable in the kitchen. So choose your shrimp or prawns based on how they taste, what size you want, and if they've been caught or raised in an environmentally responsible way. (On that last note, see Seafood Watch for more information.)  - Local Foods/about

After a long walk on the pier debating the pros and cons to living on a sailboat while we digest our food we finished our day with a delicious 99 cone.  A soft serve vanilla ice cream with a chocolate flake in it (Niall's favorite).

Our only regret of the day is not remembering the festival sooner so Maria and Dave could have come along.  Next year.


Friday, 26 April 2013

late to the game



Ok, I may be a little late to the game on this one, but I just found one of the best cafés in the world.  The Fumbally.

I am in love.  The communal wooden tables, the high ceilings and big bright windows.  Chalkboards, live plants, rustic farmhouse atmosphere.  Heaven.

Despite the fact that this place was recommended to us by a very dependable source (Aunt Mari) months ago I only recently rediscovered it the other day as I was running (I am discovering so much these days due to running).  So even though it is a cool 2km (1.3mi) away I had to venture out to see what it was all about.

I ordered their regular falafel wrap and a tea while eyeing the flour less chocolate cake for later.  The wrap was saucy and oh so flavourful with crispy cabbage, fresh tomatoes and cooked beets.  I have been craving good falafel since I have been here (actually since I left LA years ago).  Although this isn't quite like the delicious fried mess you would get from a middle eastern counter in the valley, it has satisfied my recent craving.  Think more Follow Your Heart.

Chocolate cake and coffee were of course delicious, but I can't wait to try their italian sausage or porchetta sandwich, both on homemade ciabatta.  Plus they have an entire plate dedicated to the avocado!  Need I say more.

So far the only downside that I can see is that they are not open on Sundays.  This place screams brunch to me.  Unfortunately, not too many Irish people are screaming for brunch.  In fact, this is funny, brunch doesn't start until noon or one around here.  It seems that getting up at 8 am is ridiculously early for a lot of people, which means we have nice quiet mornings to ourselves more often than not.  However, I see myself adapting to that lifestyle a little too easily.  Talk to me in a month.

Uh-oh, time to cut this short.  I have to go because it is going to start raining and I don't have a rain jacket.  Weather changes more often in a day here that it does in Rockies, I'll tell you what.  You think I would have learned between the two.

Wednesday, 17 April 2013

I'll call you later...

My bike and my phone were both stolen from me yesterday within minutes of each other.   And what do I do to consol myself?  Look at photos from the Boston Marathon on the interweb.  Now I am sitting in a coffee shop trying not to lay my head on the table and cry.

Save for the marathon bombing, my missing bike and being mugged on the street, yesterday wasn't all bad.  In fact I am pretty sure I hit a point of pure elation and full heartedness only hours prior.  Never have I experience such opposite emotional extremes in the same day.

At ten in the morning I set out for a thirty minute run only to find myself stumbling back to my front door exhausted and hungrier than I have ever been two hours later.  My first half marathon.  Ever.

You see, I have been reading this book called Born to Run by Christopher McDougall.  I am only three quarters of the way through and not only has it altered my perspective on running it has changed the way I see the world.  As cheesy as it sounds to have a life changing revelation from just one book it is not the first one I have had (Breakfast of Champions, Conversations with God, Jitterbug Perfume to name a few) Some things just click ya know?  Like the idea of becoming a better person in order to become a better runner.  Can we not just replace the word runner with a million other occupations or hobbies?  Or the idea that our bodies are our own natural healers.  Every piece designed the way it was supposed to be if only we gave it enough encouragement to act on its own accord.

Without going into too much detail of what the book is actually about (I encourage you to find out for yourself), I can say that I have changed my stride (literally) as well as my mindset while running.  Resulting in both physical comfort and emotional contentment.  Up until now, I repeated the mantra running is bad for you over and over in my head.  Yet, I found running easier than saddling up to my road bike which would entail more street navigation than the breaking of a sweat.  With running, I could have a simple route picked out that required very little turn by turn navigation yet still cover plenty of ground.  So I set out with a map in my head and a heaviness in my heart.  My thoughts were taken to the tragedy in Boston.

Now everyone will forever be afraid of massive gatherings.  No one is going to run marathons anymore and everyone will live in fear.  These attackers are ruining everything!  I was dwelling on the downturn of society when my eyes perked up at the site of the River Dodder below me.  Sprawling out to the right and left the river was sparkling in the sunshine (yes, sunshine) rushing below lush green trees which were bursting with the life of birds and squirrels.  Ok, so my perception may have been slightly exaggerated by Laura Mvula's Green Garden playing in my right ear.  That and the endorphins.  I love me some endorphins!

On a whim, I decided to change my route.  Following the river west, I soon found myself soaking in the sound of the birds and the rushing water.  Passing dogs and their owners, a man and his kid feeding white bread to the swans and more and more green as I bounded through Bushy Park.  I completely forgot what day it was, where I had come from or where I was going.  I felt alive and totally present in the moment, forgetting the map in my head and the heaviness in my heart.  Nothing else matter but what I would discover here and now on this run.

I came out on the other side of the park questioning my decision to head home after only forty minutes of running (my usual stint).  So, I kept running.  It took everything in me not to pull out my phone and find that little blue dot that I so often identify with in a new city.  Instead I took noticed of the buses passing by and recalled which ones came from city center.  It was about the time I passed the road back to my house that things really began to change.

I first noticed the transformation when I realised I was no longer thinking about how scary the world is.  I began to feel empowered by the idea of showing up to the Boston marathon in the following years to spite the attackers and honor the victims.  I visualised a entire community with this same mindset.  A strong fearless group of people set out to fight fear and hate with love and compassion.  The kind of common mentality I would expect to find amongst fellow runners.  They strive for perfection and push through exhaustion and fear to come out ahead in the end.  Right?

And then it hit me, today I will run for Boston.  I will run until I can't run anymore because it is the only thing I can do at this moment to honour the lives lost and disrupted.  Perhaps it was my new sense of patriotism that I found upon moving to Ireland, but I felt as though I had to do something.  And what makes more sense than running?  We can't stop running because some lunatics insist on making this their world.  We need to keep running.

I immediately began over glorifying my intention into a city-wide awareness beginning with my decision to step outside to go out for a run.  Picture Forrest Gump with his entourage of followers running across the United States for no reason in particular.  Only I had a reason, the Boston Marathon victims.  Instead of a happy face on the front of my shirt, there would be a white piece of paper with the words Running for Boston written on it in black sharpie.  The sharpie and paper, of course, would be offered to me by the cafe I stopped in for a drink of water after they asked me how long I have been running for today.

So exciting was the potential of my little excursion that I would periodically giggle to myself out loud.  I kept smiling because it came so naturally to do so.  The more I smiled the better I felt and the better I felt the more I smiled.  I had a new sense of pride in humanity.  We can overcome anything.

I kept running.  I had no destination in mind only places that I wanted to see that I haven't yet seen.  I stopped in a pub for a glass of water and then went in search of a bike shop for some sort of goo or gummy fuel.  I was over an hour in and feeling the loss of calories and energy.  The first shop I found was closed.  The convenience store across the street only had candy and crisps.  It took me five minutes at an Italian cafe to realize I didn't have enough money for a €5 sandwich.  I kept running until I finally settled on a Snickers bar from the grocery store only to discover while in the queue that I had no money at all.  Shit.

Setting out again I realised that my feeling of elation took a drastic turn towards desperation and panic.  Now I had to go home.  But I was still at least twenty minutes away.  It was these last twenty minutes that brought me back to my original perception of running; a miserable, painful suffer-fest with no end in sight.  And then I remembered something I read in Born to Run about suffering.  And I realised, I never suffer.  Granted, that is by choice.  Who likes suffering?  But when have I actually experienced tragedy or life struggle that demanded more of me than I knew I had?  Not often enough.

My support team was off today so I needed to dig up some of my own motivation.
Just keep swimming, just keep swimming.  Imagine the gratification at the end.  You can do this.  Push Push.

I burst through the front door with one thing in mind; nutty granola and milk.  After devouring a bowl I immediately wanted to collapse.  Instead, my inner guilt rose again.  I have things to do today and it is almost one o'clock!  After a quick shower and a bowl of pasta (yep) I run to the recycling centre, the bank and the supermarket.  Yay productivity!   Time for a nap...

My alarm goes off an hour and half later, I have Spanish class at 6 o'clock.  Deciding whether or not to get me up and go brought me back to the idea of suffering.  Challenging.  Pushing yourself to be great.  So often I opt out of doing this for myself.  Although I know the end result will inevitably be beneficial I have never recognised the act of pushing myself out of bed to be the actual benefit.  I need to remember that going beyond one's limits (or what we perceive to be our limits) is a gift I can give to myself.  I will now choose to think of a challenge as Sid would*.

*"What ho, a foe?"

Out of bed I did.  Spanish class I went.  Bike ride I did too, but only on the way there.  Pulling up my gloves and dawning my reflective wind breaker I left class and arrived at the bike stand only to find...nothing.  My bike was gone.  Slightly surreal.  Not as surreal as having your phone yanked from your hand as you are crying to your mom about your stolen bike.  I loved my bike of four years, I loved my phone less, however when the latter was taken an overwhelming sense of violation and defeat came over me.  Now I was really crying.  It took a friendly woman walking by who let me use her phone, a welcoming hotel and the kindness of the Garda to bring me back to myself.  That, and cuppa "with plenty of sugar" (as the Garda officer so graciously recommended).

It's only a bike.  It's just a phone.

It wasn't the bike or the phone though.  It was the pride in humanity I had felt earlier during my run that was taken from me.  The ideological belief that we are all one and joined together for the common good we are unstoppable.  I sat there contemplating my attacker's motives.  This is not a malicious act.  No matter how much they may think they deserve the bike or the money they will get from the phone, hatred and envy are not emotions.  And emotions are what drive people to do the things that they do.  So, was it fear then?  Fear and not love.  Nope, I will not let their fear overpower my love.  I will not let the lunatics take over the world.  They can steal my phone, but not my confidence in humanity.

A bowl of take-away noodles and a big glass of red later I found myself in a hot bath of epson salt and eucalyptus oil.  This is what I know how to do.  I know how to take care of myself.  I know how to take time to honour the emotional and physical challenges of the day.  So if I am so good why not take more challenges more often?  Maybe I have a better recovery rate than most.  Why not take advantage of that ability?  So life, throw it at me.  I am ready.


If you have made it this far....

My bike, if by chance you see someone riding it.  It's mine.  Not theirs.




My somewhat spastic yet life changing running route.  :-)


View Larger Map